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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.